Category: 2020 Tour

Terry Arnold

For 2020 the situation regarding Covid was severely limiting UK and even more – European travel. Although Covid rules had relaxed considerably, the hospitality sector in particular was operating under tight and variable practices, there were severe staff shortages and nothing could be taken for granted. As much as anything people were so glad to be out and about they were making up for lost time, meaning places were generally very busy.

We had earlier prepared and booked a trip to the French Alps for this year (see the 2022 Tour), but it was not to be. Therefore we cobbled together a UK tour to circumvent the limitations of the slowly un-locking leisure environment.

Instead, we decide to use Terry’s and Paul’s houses plus a welsh cottage to create a UK route over 7/8 days to include the Peak District, north Wales, Devon and for some, a final night in the Cotswolds.

The result was around 1600 miles following a threatening (and sometimes productive) rain cloud around the UK, overtaking campervans and some fantastic scenery.

• We gathered at West Barn in the Peak District, Colin, Paul, Will, John, Clappo & Terry
• As had worked well before we had a delivery of supplies from Morrison’s
• We anticipated that we would need to eat-in and prepared for BBQs and drinks at home – as eating out was now far more of a challenge.
• We used a different route to the ones we had used before, this time north east of Sheffield and up to Holmfirth – the setting for “Last of the Summer Wine“
• On the way we stopped for coffee and cake at a Midhopestones on the A616 that is very popular with cyclists. I had stopped there with Clappo on a previous ride we did together and when we weren’t allowed inside.
• The road south from Holmfirth is spectacular, descending into a wide deep valley with long views, we went past the 4 reservoirs to the north of Glossop and further on to Buxton.
• Northwest to Whaley Bridge and down to Macclesfield, then up and over the Cat and Fiddle pass back to Buxton
• At a fuel stop, John could not find his wallet which contained plenty of cash and all his cards.
• We stopped again for refreshments at Lognor and headed west back to Beeley’s Devonshire Arms to sample some more Jaipur.
• The next day we headed almost due west to Caenarvon in Wales. We had hoped to meet up with Gary as he lived near our route but that was not to be
• We stopped at a pub in Audlem for coffees and John searched his bike top to bottom looking for his missing wallet. Terry phoned Irene who was at that very moment heading for the Barn. Would she have a thorough search for the wallet?
• We rode on past Llangollen and into the Ponderosa Cafe for a hearty all-day breakfast.
• The scenery from here became very pleasant again with the welsh hills and lakes and roads. The A694 is a great fast sweeping road.
• We turned right at Bala and onto smaller roads. From Ffestiniog they became even narrower and it started to rain. This road as marred by Feckin motorhomes and caravans crawling along the narrow lanes inconveniencing everyone else.
• We found our way to the digs easily, it was a little off the road. Clappo had booked a pleasant cottage – Cae Berllan, another astute ‘bargain’ – and in truth – it was very suitable for us. Plenty of space, clean and well enough equipped. It could have benefited from a 2nd bathroom but we managed fine.
• The news about the missing wallet was not good, nowhere to be seen, so John started the process of having all his cards cancelled and reset.
• We ordered a van taxi to take us the 5 miles into Caenarfon for dinner. We waited ages, maybe 45 minutes, and then he drove quite erratically into town. We gave him a good tip and asked him to collect us later.
• Probably the 1st pub we encountered was the Black Boy a lovely black and white pub that was “full”. An outside table was vacated and we quickly nabbed it and fastened up our jackets as it was a bit nippy.
• We had some drinks, and Clappo worked on the barmaid, and when 6 seats came available inside she kindly relocated us to 2 seperate tables in the warm. Later we we able to sit together for a drink and chat.
• Our generous tip worked and our taxi driver duly appeared and took us back to the digs.
• For the Wales ride-out we zig-zagged about but basically headed north to Conwy and Llandudno. Arriving there we went on to the Great Orme peninsula and parked up at the lighthouse. We had lunch in the time-capsule of a cafe there, took photos of the lovely views and each other.
• Walking back to the bikes, Colin put his hand into his deep internal Rukka jacket pocket and pulled out an unfamiliar wallet! As John, Colin and Will all have identical Rukka jackets, it appears John had simply put his wallet into the wrong pocket when they were all hung up together. Bugger! At least he had his cash and lovely Louis Vuitton wallet back.
• We travelled south through the Snowdonia national park to Ffestiniog and turned west to do a lap of the Lynn peninsula. Along the long spit road shared with the railway line and into Porthmaddog, where we stopped for coffees.
• We followed the southern coast through Pwllheli and out to the furthest west point past Aberdaron. Clappo had visited before and correctly called it that you could follow the old concrete military road right up to the site of the former coastguard station – which we did.
• We parked the bikes and enjoyed the wonderful views over the sea to Bardsey Island. We took the obligatory group photos and set off back down. Descending the very-single track road with cast in concrete kerbs, we encountered a couple driving up towards us and I observed they drove past a passing place.
• As we met bumper to wheel (with 5 more motorbikes behind), the driver indicated that we should all back up. I explained to him that motorbikes don’t have a reverse gear and weigh a quarter of a ton and it was simply impossible for that to happen. His woman passenger began ranting and raging and we simply turned off the bikes and sat patiently waiting. Eventually he reversed the 20-30yards downhill to the passing place and then hurled profanities at us as we sarcastically waived thanks as we went past.
• We rode along the northern coast of the peninsula back towards the cottage. We were tired now and were looking for somewhere to buy food for dinner at home but saw nothing. Will and Terry rode on towards Caenarfon whist the others went straight back to the digs. We bought a selection of microwave meals and had a less fine culinary experience that evening.
• The next day we moved on nearly 300 miles to Paul’s at Holcombe in Devon.
• We rode down through Snowdonia and pretty much right down the middle of Wales North to South. Through the Brecons and through Abergavenny.
• We crossed the river Severn and then it was mostly M5 motorway down to Devon. Terry peeled off at the Cullompton junction to visit an aunt for a couple of hours and rejoined the group later at Paul’s house.
• Sharon had very kindly made us an evening meal and we sat chatting at the table for a few hours.
• Next day we did a 200 mile loop from the south coast to the north, riding down through Teignmouth and along the Devon riviera. Unsurprisingly for July, the traffic in those parts was nose-to-tail. It’s a beautiful area and everybody wants to visit. (all at once)
• We crossed from Kingswear to Dartmouth on the chain ferry and rode in a moving queue pretty much all the way to the A38 at Buckfastleigh. The traffic even extended up into the lower parts of Dartmoor before thinning out.
• We stopped at Barnstable for refreshments and a bite to eat before heading north into Exmoor and to the coast. We picked up the tiny road that clings to the hillside, overlooking the sea, from Martinhoe through the Valley of Rocks and into Lynton.
• Along the beautiful coast road and down the famed Porlock hill to Dunster, turning south on the very pleasing A396 to the Exmoor Inn at Bampton, where we stopped for a beer.
• South through Tiverton, skirted Exeter and then with Paul leading home on his local patch, we got split into 2 groups. I believe Paul led some along the Powderham coast road, while we followed the planned main road route, arriving at roughly the same time.
• That evening, Paul had a table booked at the nearby Smugglers Inn where we enjoyed a carvery meal and drinks. (served by a girl with plenty of piercings and tattoos)
• Next morning we set off for our respective homes however, Terry & Clappo were going to meet up with Colin and stay another night near Cirencester to halve the journey home. (Colin had temporarily left the tour to attend a medical appointment but wanted to do a few more miles yet on this tour.) We rode up to Exeter where John left for home on the M5, and turned south for Exmouth.
• We followed the coast to Axmouth and headed north to Axminster, Crewkerne and Shaftsbury. There, we turned north for Warminster and stopped for lunch at the wonderful George Inn and Norton St.Phillip – a beautiful medieval coaching inn.
• Next, we did some rolling sightseeing around Bath, stopping at the famous Crescent for photos. Further north to Tetbury where we stopped in the very smart and monied town and visited a quirky 50s/60s music cafe, sitting at a pavement table in our smart and elegant motorcycling garb.
• A few miles on we encountered a very strange sight. As we approached the Cotswold airport at Kemble, we could see in the distance, many (>20) BA Boeing 747s parked on the apron. When we got closer we could see that they had been taken out of service, had had their engines removed and were being further dismantled. Quite Eerie and sad.
• Then, Clappo was stung on the face by a wasp. Well! Him – a hardened miner! Apparently his first ever sting, he needed to pull over as he was feeling giddy and sick. He took a rest for 10 minutes before we moved on. What a fuss!
• Just a couple of miles to our digs for the night, and AirBNB, a grand old listed stone house.
• Here, we met up with Colin who was waiting for us.
• The digs were quite odd. It had clearly been very grand and had gone down a long way before the current owners had started to restore some of it’s self-respect.
• Rambling, creaking, bit messy, characterful, a pesky dog and a male host who we took to be drunk (from his dress and demeanor) but we later felt it might be a condition. The lady was friendly but a touch strange. Our rooms were up 2 staircases at the back and were perfectly acceptable.
• Our hosts recommended a local pub for food and we reserved a table and walked the mile or so down there. It was a decent meal with drinks in a very pleasant pub.
• After breakfast we headed north west through the Cotswolds and Buckinghamshire. We were headed for the Super Sausage cafe on the A5 north of Milton Keynes.
• Unfortunately, just before the cafe, Clappo (thinking Terry had moved off at a roundabout) crashed into the back of Terry’s bike, throwing them both onto the tarmac and Terry’s off-side aluminium panner along the road. The bikes were quickly upright and the pannier reattached with the help of Colin’s bungee strap. A bit of later panel beating and hammer-work straightened the pannier mounts and the box and it went on to give several years of trouble free service). At the time of writing (Sep-22), the Triumph still has a cracked mudguard and other bits.
• The Super Sausage cafe was mobbed, it was a lovely sunny day and bikers filled the car-parks. We queued for nearly an hour to order their excellent food, but it was worth it and there was plenty to see and chat about.
• Clappo headed north, I followed Colin south at breakneck speeds as he was now on HIS local patch. We waived goodbye at MK and all arrived home without further incident.